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2013-2017 Honda Accord: Common Problems

Common Problems for 2013-2017 Honda Accord - based on owner reports and NHTSA data

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Common Problems for 2013-2017 Honda Accord

Important data note

  • NHTSA data provided above shows only a single owner complaint for this generation (2013–2017). The complaint cites an emissions-related fault (OBD code P0455) with rough idle, described as starting after about 62k miles, with a vehicle reported at about 42k miles in the log. There is a discrepancy in those mileages, which highlights a data limitation: a single complaint cannot establish prevalence or reliability for the model years.
  • No recalls found in NHTSA database for this make/model/year in the data provided.
  • Based on the data available, the practical takeaway is situational: emissions-related symptoms can appear as small or large EVAP problems and may cause rough idle, but more complaints would be needed to identify a broader pattern.

What this guide covers

  • Practical interpretation of the reported issue
  • Likely causes and diagnostic steps for P0455 and related rough idle
  • Estimated costs in 2025 for common fixes
  • Preventive maintenance and how to avoid or catch problems early
  • A practical owner checklist for buying, owning, and maintaining a 2013–2017 Accord

Understanding the reported problem (P0455 and rough idle)

  • What the complaint describes
    • P0455 is an emissions-related fault code indicating a large EVAP (evaporative emissions) system leak.
    • Rough idle, especially when cold, was noted in the same complaint.
    • A single recorded case cannot confirm a widespread problem, but it does point to a possible EVAP-related issue affecting idle quality and emissions readiness.
  • How P0455 typically presents
    • Check Engine Light (CEL) illumination with the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) on.
    • Symptoms can include rough idle, difficulty starting, decreased fuel efficiency, and in some cases fuel odor if the leak is on the larger side.
  • Common EVAP system causes tied to P0455
    • Gas cap: loose, cracked, or missing cap is a frequent and inexpensive cause.
    • EVAP purge valve (solenoid): stuck open/closed or electrically failing.
    • Vacuum hoses or EVAP hoses: cracks, disconnections, or loose fittings.
    • Charcoal canister: damaged or clogged; often more involved to replace.
    • EVAP system leak detection pump or other purge/dump components depending on the engine family.
  • How rough idle might connect to EVAP
    • A large EVAP leak can upset the fuel-air mixture management, especially on startup or cold idle, leading to rough running until the system stabilizes or the engine decides to go into a limp-ish mode to protect emission controls.

Diagnostic steps you can take (practical, low-risk first)

  • Start with the easiest checks
    • Gas cap: Ensure it’s tight, undamaged, and the cap seal is in good condition. If in doubt, replace with a genuine or reputable-cap. Clear MIL after driving a few cycles if the leak was cap-related.
    • Inspect visible EVAP hoses and connections for cracks, signs of wear, or disconnections around the engine bay and EVAP components.
  • Check for additional codes and freeze frame data
    • If you have access to an OBD-II scanner, read codes beyond P0455 (if any) and note freeze-frame data (engine load, temperature, etc.). This can inform whether the problem correlates with cold starts.
  • Plan for a more thorough EVAP test if the cap and hoses look fine
    • Smoke test of the EVAP system to reveal leaks: professional shop diagnostic method; highlights small leaks that aren’t visibly obvious.
    • Pressure/vacuum test of the EVAP system to confirm a large leak vs. smaller vacuum leaks in hoses.
    • Electrical check of the purge valve/solenoid to ensure proper operation (actuation and resistance within spec).
  • When to seek professional help
    • If gas cap replacement and simple hose checks don’t resolve the code or idle quality, or if you don’t have the tools to safely perform EVAP testing, a trusted mechanic or dealership can perform a smoke test and EVAP diagnostic.
    • Expect a diagnostic fee plus the cost of parts if a specific EVAP component is replaced.

2025 cost estimates for common EVAP-related fixes

Note: Costs vary by region, shop, and engine/transmission configuration. The ranges below are typical North American estimates for 2025, including parts and labor.

  • Gas cap replacement (if needed)

    • Parts: $5–$25
    • Labor: $25–$75 (often a quick, DIY-friendly fix)
    • Typical total: $30–$100
  • EVAP purge valve (solenoid) replacement

    • Parts: $60–$180
    • Labor: $60–$200
    • Typical total: $120–$380
  • Vacuum hoses or small EVAP hoses replacement

    • Parts: $20–$100
    • Labor: $60–$150
    • Typical total: $80–$250
  • EVAP canister (charcoal canister) replacement

    • Parts: $250–$700
    • Labor: $150–$400
    • Typical total: $400–$1,100
  • EVAP system leak detection pump replacement

    • Parts: $50–$250
    • Labor: $60–$180
    • Typical total: $110–$430
  • Smoke test/diagnostic (if performed by a shop)

    • Diagnostic fee: $70–$150 (often applied toward repair if a component is replaced)

Tips to minimize EVAP-related risk

  • Use high-quality fuel and avoid long-term fuel storage with low fuel levels, which can stress the EVAP system.
  • Keep the gas cap area clean; if you smell fuel around the tank, consider a professional check sooner rather than later.
  • If planning long trips, ensure the CEL is not on before departure; an active EVAP code can cause the car to run in a degraded-emissions mode.

Preventive maintenance and general care for 2013–2017 Accords

  • Regular engine maintenance aligned with the owner’s manual (oil changes, air filter, PCV valve checks) helps reduce undue stress on emission-control systems.
  • Periodic inspection of visible EVAP hoses and the vent/breather system during routine maintenance can catch cracks or loose connections early.
  • If you notice fuel economy drop, unexplained odor, or rough idle, get a diagnostic earlier rather than later to avoid compounding issues.

Other potential issues to watch for (general, model-year range guidance)

Note: The data provided here is limited (one complaint), but owners of this generation often report a mix of issues that are not guaranteed, yet are commonly discussed in owner communities. Use this as a proactive checklist rather than a guaranteed failure list.

  • Transmission and drivetrain
    • Some owners report transmission/noise or shifting concerns in various trims; regular transmission service (where applicable) and using the recommended transmission fluid can help longevity.
  • Engine startup and idle behavior
    • Rough idle or stumble on startup can be caused by misfires, vacuum leaks, or ignition issues. If it occurs persistently, a diagnostic scan for misfire codes (P0300 series) is advised.
  • Fuel system and emissions
    • EVAP-related codes (like P0455) are among the more common emissions-related complaints; regular inspection of hoses, canister, and purge valve helps.
  • Electrical and accessory reliability
    • Some owners report issues with battery life, alternator, or accessory electrical components. Routine electrical system checks can catch looming concerns.
  • Brake and suspension wear
    • Normal wear items (shoes/ pads, rotors, struts/shocks) wear with mileage. Listen for noises or vibrations and have alignment checks if steering feels off.
  • Cabin comfort and HVAC
    • Climate control reliability varies; refrigerant leaks or compressor issues are possible in older vehicles, though not universal.

Buying and owning tips for a used 2013–2017 Accord

  • Prioritize a comprehensive pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a qualified mechanic.
  • Ask for service history, especially emissions-related work and any EVAP-related codes or repairs.
  • Request vehicle history and title checks; ensure no consistent owner-reported issues with drivetrain or engine.
  • If CEL is on during test drive, obtain a diagnostic printout or have it scanned to confirm current codes and pending codes.
  • Consider a shop diagnostic plan that includes EVAP testing if you anticipate longer-term ownership.

Quick reference checklist for owners and buyers

  • Check for active or historical P0455 and related EVAP codes.
  • Inspect gas cap and sealing surfaces; replace if suspect.
  • Visually inspect EVAP hoses for cracks, wear, or disconnections.
  • If a leak is suspected but not found by basic checks, plan for a professional smoke test.
  • Review maintenance records for regular oil changes, air filter changes, and any EVAP-related service.
  • Maintain fuel system cleanliness with quality fuels and periodic fuel system treatments only if recommended by a trusted mechanic.

Bottom line

  • With only one documented complaint in the data provided, P0455 and rough idle in the 2013–2017 Honda Accord appear as an emissions-related concern in this sample. The absence of recalls in the provided data means there are no NHTSA-mandated recalls to report for this dataset.
  • The practical approach is to treat P0455 as an EVAP-system issue that could be caused by a simple gas cap problem or more complex EVAP components. Start with the low-cost checks (gas cap, hoses) and escalate to professional diagnostics (smoke test, purge valve and canister checks) if the CEL persists.
  • For budgeting in 2025, plan for an EVAP-related repair range from roughly $30 to $1,100 depending on the exact failed component and labor, with many common fixes in the $120–$380 neighborhood (purge valve, hoses, and related components). Gas cap fixes are especially inexpensive if caught early.

If you’d like, I can tailor this guide to a specific trim, mileage, or your local labor rates, or provide a more detailed cost breakdown for a particular repair scenario.


Frequently Asked Questions

The 2013-2017 Honda Accord has several known issues that vary by model year. See our detailed guide for specific problems, causes, and repair costs.

Vehicle Info

MakeHonda
ModelAccord
Years2013-2017

DISCLAIMER: This information is for educational purposes only. MechanicGPT is not a licensed mechanic. Always consult a certified mechanic for diagnosis and repair. Improper repairs can be dangerous.