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P0113 Code: Honda CR-V (2017-2023) - Causes, Symptoms & Fixes

Complete guide to P0113 diagnostic trouble code on 2017-2023 Honda CR-V - causes, symptoms, repair costs

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Comprehensive diagnostic guide for OBD2 code P0113 on 2017-2023 Honda CR-V

Important data note

  • Based on the information you provided, there are no owner complaints and no official recalls found in the NHTSA database for the 2017-2023 Honda CR-V relevant to code P0113. This guide uses general diagnostic knowledge for this code on Honda CR-Vs of this era, plus model-specific considerations. If you have any updated data sources, we can adjust accordingly.

CODE MEANING AND SEVERITY

  • Code meaning: P0113 = Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 1 Circuit High Input. This means the PCM is seeing a higher-than-expected voltage/signal from the IAT sensor than should correspond to ambient or intake air temperature.
  • Where it can appear on CR-V: The CR-V uses an IAT sensor that is often part of or associated with the air intake/MAF assembly. In some configurations, the IAT is a discrete sensor; in others, it’s integrated with the MAF sensor. Either way, P0113 indicates an abnormal reading high enough to trigger the diagnostic.
  • Severity:
    • Drives: Can cause non-optimal air/fuel mixture, potential drivability issues.
    • Emissions/fuel economy: Likely to cause reduced fuel economy and possible misfiring if the PCM compensates incorrectly.
    • MIL: A stored DTC will illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (check engine light) and may trigger freeze-frame data.
    • Repeated or long-term operation with this fault can lead to higher emissions and poor performance, but it is not typically as immediately dangerous as some other DTCs unless combined with other faults.

COMMON CAUSES ON HONDA CR-V (P0113)

  • Faulty IAT sensor (discrete sensor or as part of MAF assembly)
  • Damaged or corroded IAT wiring harness, connector, or insulation (pin harness wear, broken wires, poor contact)
  • Short to voltage (Vref) or open circuit in the IAT circuit
  • Faulty 5V reference supply or PCM ground issues affecting the IAT circuit
  • IAT sensor contaminated or gunked up (rare but possible if air intake is dirty)
  • Air intake system issues that alter readings indirectly (e.g., air leaks, loose intake components) and confuse the sensor data
  • aftermarket parts or modifications that alter sensor wiring, connectors, or intake routing
  • If the IAT is integrated into the MAF: a faulty MAF sensor or its wiring can manifest as IAT-related readings
  • PCM or internal sensor fault (less common, but possible)

SYMPTOMS (common, not guaranteed)

  • MIL (check engine light) active
  • Poor or inconsistent idle, especially at startup
  • Slight to noticeable reduction in throttle response or off-idle stumble
  • Reduced fuel economy or richer/leaner trim symptoms reported by the scanner
  • No obvious symptoms in mild cases; the DTC may be stored and not immediately noticeable
  • In some cases, no drivability symptoms if the PCM is able to compensate

DIAGNOSTIC STEPS

Note: Use a quality OBD-II scanner capable of live data and freeze-frame data. If you’re not comfortable with electrical testing, consider professional help.

Step 0 – Confirm the DTC and collect data

  • Read the DTC with the ignition on (engine off) and again with the engine at operating temperature.
  • Note freeze-frame data: engine temperature (ECT), intake air temperature reading (IAT), ambient air temperature, RPM, vehicle speed, etc.
  • Confirm P0113 is current or stored, and check for any other codes (P0101–P0104 for MAF, P0171/P0174 for fuel trim, etc.).

Step 1 – Inspect the IAT circuit and sensor physically

  • Locate the IAT sensor (likely near the air intake/MAF assembly). For CR-Vs, determine whether it’s a discrete sensor or integrated into the MAF.
  • Inspect the sensor and connector for:
    • Bent, damaged, or corroded pins
    • Loose connection or improper seating
    • Damaged insulation or chafed wires in the harness
    • Any signs of contamination, oil, or dirt on the sensor or connector
  • Disconnect the sensor and inspect the wiring harness pinout to ensure correct pin alignment and no shorted pins against the body or other wires.

Step 2 – Check power, reference, and ground

  • With the ignition on (engine off), measure the IAT sensor’s signal wire voltage (should be around the PCM’s 5V reference when the sensor is connected). You should see about 5V on the Vref line and a small voltage on the signal line that changes with temperature.
  • With the engine running, observe the IAT reading on the scan tool. It should correspond reasonably to ambient temperature when the engine is cold and rise as the engine warms up. If the signal line shows a constant high or an out-of-range value despite temperature changes, suspect the sensor or wiring.
  • Verify the 5V reference = about 4.5–5.5V range; verify a solid ground path with low resistance to chassis/PCM ground.

Step 3 – Sensor testing (if you have a dismountable IAT sensor)

  • If the IAT sensor is discrete:
    • Test resistance of the sensor at known temperatures if you can access a spec for the Honda IAT at various temperatures. Compare resistance values to the spec (many IATs are NTC thermistors with decreasing resistance as temperature increases).
    • If resistance at room temperature is way off from spec, replace sensor.
  • If the IAT is integrated in the MAF:
    • Do not attempt to “test” the MAF’s IAT portion in isolation; test the MAF as a unit. If you suspect correlation with P0113, consider replacing the MAF sensor assembly.

Step 4 – Check for intake system integrity

  • Look for vacuum leaks in the intake tract, throttle body boot, or intake piping near the sensor. A leak can affect measured intake temperature readings by altering air mass and temperature readings indirectly.
  • Ensure there are no air filters or intake plenum issues that could mislead the sensor.

Step 5 – Check for other related codes and data

  • Check for P0101/P0102/P0103 (MAF circuit/system range) and P0171/P0174 (fuel trim) that may accompany P0113. If these appear, the problem may be broader (sensor or MAF related) rather than only IAT.
  • Look at long-term and short-term fuel trim values in live data. Abnormal trims can help identify whether the PCM is reacting to incorrect air temperature data.

Step 6 – If sensor and wiring test OK

  • Clear the codes and test drive the vehicle to see if the DTC returns. Monitor live data to see if the IAT reading aligns with actual ambient/engine temperature.
  • If P0113 returns consistently with proper sensor readings and wiring tested, consider PCM or sensor replacement as a last resort.

Step 7 – Special cases for Honda CR-V

  • If the IAT sensor is integrated with the MAF, a faulty MAF is frequently the root cause of IAT-related codes. Replacing the MAF assembly may resolve the problem in such configurations.
  • For cars with service/maintenance history including air intake modifications, recheck that aftermarket components do not introduce wiring harness misrouting or sensor interference.

RELATED CODES

  • P0110: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction
  • P0111: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance
  • P0112: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
  • P0101–P0104: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor issues (ranges, performance, etc., often related when IAT is integrated with MAF)
  • P0171 or P0174: System Too Lean/Rich (may appear if IAT-based fuel trims are misread)

REPAIR OPTIONS AND COSTS (2025 prices)

Note: Prices vary by region, shop, and whether the IAT is discrete or integrated in the MAF. The ranges below are approximate and intended for budgeting.

  • IAT sensor replacement (discrete sensor, not integrated in MAF)

    • Parts: $15–$60
    • Labor: $40–$120
    • Typical total: $60–$180
  • IAT sensor replacement when integrated in MAF (MAF sensor replacement)

    • Parts (MAF assembly): $60–$250
    • Labor: $100–$220
    • Typical total: $160–$470
    • Note: Some CR-Vs use a single MAF with the IAT embedded; replacing MAF is effectively replacing the sensor too.
  • Wiring harness/connector repair (minor cosmetic harness repair or connector replacement)

    • Parts: $5–$60 (connectors, wires)
    • Labor: $60–$150
    • Typical total: $65–$210
    • If there is significant harness damage, prices may be higher.
  • Cleaning or inspecting MAF/IAT wiring (non-replace)

    • Parts: minimal
    • Labor: minimal
    • Typical total: $0–$60 (if DIY; professional cleaning may be done as part of diagnostic time)
  • PCM replacement (rare and usually only after ruling out sensor/wiring)

    • Parts: $200–$900 (depending on core/repair options)
    • Labor: $100–$300
    • Typical total: $300–$1200
    • Note: PCM replacement is uncommon for P0113 unless proven defective after extensive testing.
  • All-in-one recommendation

    • Start with sensor and wiring checks. If the IAT is discrete and tests pass on wiring but the fault persists, replace the IAT sensor.
    • If IAT is integrated into MAF and additional diagnostic data points toward MAF problems (erratic readings, other MAF codes, etc.), replace the MAF sensor assembly.
    • Avoid unnecessary PCM replacement unless all sensor/metered data confirms PCM fault after extensive testing.

DIY VS PROFESSIONAL

  • DIY-friendly scenarios (if you’re comfortable with basic automotive electrical tests):
    • Inspecting and reseating IAT sensor connectors
    • Checking for damaged wires, corrosion, or poor ground connections
    • Performing voltage checks on the 5V reference line and signal line with a multimeter
    • Listening for warranty or recall notices (though none found in the provided data)
    • Replacing a discrete IAT sensor if easily accessible and you have the correct tool
  • Professional considerations:
    • If the IAT is integrated with the MAF, many shops prefer replacing the MAF assembly rather than diagnosing a failed IAT sensor portion
    • A shop can perform more advanced tests (scope-based testing, proper resistance vs. temperature testing, and sensor calibration checks)
    • They can also verify there are no latent wiring faults that only appear under certain temperatures or loads
  • Safety: Always disconnect the battery when removing and inspecting electrical connectors, and follow proper anti-static handling procedures.

PREVENTION

  • Regular maintenance:
    • Replace the engine air filter on schedule; ensure clean air intake path and avoid debris entering the intake system
  • Sensor care:
    • Use OEM or high-quality sensors if replacement is needed
    • Avoid contaminating sensors with aftermarket cleaners or solvents
  • Wiring and harness care:
    • Inspect harnesses during routine maintenance for signs of wear, chafing, or heat damage in the engine bay
    • Ensure connectors click firmly and remain seated, especially after any intake work
  • Intake integrity:
    • Ensure there are no cracks, loose clamps, or loose tubing in the intake tract
    • Recheck any aftermarket intake systems for proper fit and routing
  • Avoid unnecessary modifications:
    • Abnormal routing or wiring of any sensors can cause false readings or electrical noise

Data limitations and transparency

  • The provided data indicates no NHTSA complaints or recalls for this specific issue and model year pairing. Therefore, the guide relies on generic P0113 diagnostic principles plus Honda CR-V-specific sensor placement considerations.
  • If you have access to updated complaint data or service bulletins (TSBs) for your exact VIN, those may provide more precise troubleshooting steps or known fixes for your vehicle.
  • Always verify with OEM service manuals or dealer information for the exact sensor type (discrete IAT vs integrated in MAF) and to obtain the precise diagnostic parameter specifications for your vehicle’s year and trim.

Frequently Asked Questions

The 2017-2023 Honda CR V has several known issues that vary by model year. See our detailed guide for specific problems, causes, and repair costs.

Vehicle Info

MakeHonda
ModelCR V
Years2017-2023

DISCLAIMER: This information is for educational purposes only. MechanicGPT is not a licensed mechanic. Always consult a certified mechanic for diagnosis and repair. Improper repairs can be dangerous.