Below is a comprehensive diagnostic guide for OBD-II code P0507 (Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Normal) as it might present on a 2017–2023 Honda CR-V. This guide follows the required sections and acknowledges the data limits you provided.
CODE MEANING AND SEVERITY
- What P0507 means: P0507 indicates the Engine Control Module (ECM/ECU) has detected idle speed higher than the expected range (Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Normal). In modern Honda CR-Vs, idle control is managed by the engine computer in conjunction with the electronic throttle body. The system targets a specific idle speed, and deviations set this code.
- Severity: Moderate. A high idle can cause poor cold-start behavior, excessive fuel use, and elevated emissions. Extended high idle can stress accessories (AC compressor, power steering, alternator) and may mask underlying intake system problems. In some cases it can lead to stalling or reduced drivability if the speed fluctuates unpredictably.
COMMON CAUSES ON HONDA CR-V
The CR-V (2017–2023) uses a drive-by-wire electronic throttle system with an idle control strategy built into the ECM. Typical causes of P0507 on these engines include:
- Vacuum leaks
- Cracked or brittle vacuum hoses, intake manifold gaskets, PCV hose/valve, or imperfect hose clamps.
- Dirty or sticking throttle body / idle air control mechanism
- Carbon buildup on the throttle plate or around the idle air passage can cause elevated idle.
- Throttle body or electronic throttle control faults
- Faulty throttle actuator motor, throttle position sensor issues, or failure to re-learn/adapt after cleaning or replacement.
- Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor issues
- Dirty, contaminated, or failing sensors can cause incorrect air mass readings, confusing the ECM about what the engine requires at idle.
- Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) or related wiring
- Wrong temperature readings can alter idle speed targets, especially on cold starts.
- PCV system problems
- Clogged PCV valve, hoses, or fittings can increase vacuum/air imbalance and raise idle.
- EGR system issues
- EGR valve sticking or a leak can affect idle speed in some conditions.
- Dirty or aged air filter, intake leaks, or ducting problems
- Restriction or unintended air leaks can alter measured/real idle conditions.
- Aftermarket modifications or non-OEM parts
- Vacuum leaks from aftermarket hoses, incorrect sensors, or modified throttle/dump systems.
- Idle adaptation/learn not yet completed
- After battery disconnect or certain repairs, the ECU may need an idle relearn procedure.
SYMPTOMS
- Idle RPM higher than normal at idle, sometimes noticeable even with accessories off.
- Idle that fluctuates or hunts (oscillates up and down).
- Engine runs roughly at idle or feels like it’s going to stall (less common, but possible if other faults co-exist).
- Check Engine Light (CEL) on or flashing.
- Increased fuel consumption.
- Poor response when coming to a stop or when the A/C is turned on (A/C can exaggerate idle issues).
- In some cases, no obvious symptoms besides a stored code.
DIAGNOSTIC STEPS
Note: Start with quick checks and proceed to more involved diagnostics. Document any freeze-frame data and live sensor readings.
4.1 Confirm the code and data
- Use an OBD-II scan tool to confirm P0507 is active or stored.
- Check freeze-frame data: engine coolant temperature, air intake temperature, ignition timing, RPM, engine load, etc.
- Look for related codes (P0505, P0506, P0508, P0100–P0103, P0116–P0119, P0171/P0174, P1120, etc.) that could indicate sensor or system-wide issues.
4.2 Visual and basic inspection
- Inspect all vacuum lines and hoses for cracks, splits, or disconnections. Pay attention to the PCV line and intake manifold connections.
- Inspect the throttle body for grime, sticky throttle plate, or carbon buildup. Check the TB gasket for leaks.
- Inspect air intake components: clean air filter, ducting, and MAF sensor area for debris.
- Inspect MAF sensor and MAP sensor wiring harnesses and connectors for corrosion, corrosion, or loose connectors.
- Check PCV valve and PCV hose for leaks or clogging; replace if stuck or clogged.
- Inspect for obvious exhaust or intake leaks (loose clamps, cracked hoses, or damaged gaskets).
4.3 Cleaning and basic restoration (if indicated by inspection)
- If throttle body contamination is evident, clean the throttle body and surrounding passages with a BCM-safe throttle body cleaner. Do not spray into the sensors or connectors.
- If MAF sensor looks dirty, clean with a dedicated MAF cleaner (follow product instructions). Do not touch the sensor elements directly.
- After cleaning, some engines require a throttle body idle learn/adaptation procedure; follow the vehicle’s service procedure or use a capable scan tool to perform this relearn.
4.4 Test sensors and circuits
- MAP sensor: Check signal voltage with a scan tool. MAP readings should correlate with engine load and vacuum. A consistently high or erratic MAP reading can cause high idle if the ECU misreads load.
- MAF sensor: Compare readings at idle with data from a healthy baseline; a faulty MAF can make the ECU think more air is entering than actual, causing the ECM to adjust idle.
- ECT sensor: Ensure coolant temperature readings are accurate. A cold-start bias or erroneous temp reading can affect idle behavior, particularly on cold starts.
- Throttle body and throttle position sensor (TPS) for drive-by-wire systems: If available, inspect TPS and DBW actuator signals for abnormalities; look for stuck or slow-responding throttle plate.
4.5 Vacuum and leak testing
- Perform a thorough leak test (smoke test is ideal). If you don’t have a smoke machine, use a can of carb cleaner or propane to carefully probe suspect areas (do not run engine on aerosol tests; perform in a safe environment).
- Listen for hissing or feel for air escaping at suspected leak points around intake manifold, throttle body, and vacuum hoses.
4.6 Idle relearn and adaptation
- Some high-idle conditions are corrected by an idle relearn procedure after cleaning or part replacement.
- If the vehicle’s system requires it, perform the OEM idle learn procedure with an appropriate scan tool. This step teaches the ECM the correct idle target for the current throttle body and engine configuration.
- Ensure the engine is at normal operating temperature and follow the specific idle learn steps for your model year if available.
4.7 Component replacement considerations
- Throttle body or actuator replacement: If TB cleaning does not resolve the issue and the throttle body shows wear or actuator symptoms (uncommanded movement, stuck plate, torque faults), replacement may be necessary. After replacement, a throttle relearn is typically required.
- Vacuum system components: Replace any cracked hoses, PCV valve, or gaskets as needed.
- Sensor replacements: If MAP, MAF, or ECT sensors test out-of-spec or show persistent error readings after cleaning, replacement may be warranted.
- Fuel system issues: Low fuel pressure or incorrect injector operation is less likely to cause isolated high idle but should be checked if other symptoms appear (fuel pressure test may be needed).
4.8 Extra checks
- Engine mounts or accessory drive issues can influence idle feel but are unlikely to trigger P0507 by themselves.
- Aftermarket exhaust, intake, or tune: If recently modified, verify no unintended air leaks or calibration conflicts.
RELATED CODES
- P0505: Idle Control System Malfunction
- P0506: Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
- P0508: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Normal (or Higher Than Expected depending on the system terminology)
- Other idle-related or sensor-related codes that may accompany P0507: P0100–P0103 (MAF/MAP), P0116–P0119 (ECT correlations), P0401 (exhaust gas recirculation efficiency), P0300 (random/multiple misfire) if engine performance is affected
- Note: The presence of related codes can help pinpoint whether the issue is idle control logic, sensor input, or a mechanical leak.
REPAIR OPTIONS AND COSTS (2025 prices)
Prices vary by region, labor rates, engine variant (1.5L turbo vs other), and whether OEM or aftermarket parts are used. The ranges below reflect typical U.S. market pricing you might expect in 2025.
Quick fixes/DIY-friendly options
- TB cleaning (if grime is mild): Parts $0–$20 for cleaner; Labor if DIY: $0. If you hire a shop for cleaning only, about $50–$150.
- PCV valve and hose replacement: Parts $10–$30; Labor $40–$100.
- Air filter replacement (if dirty): Parts $15–$30; Labor $0–$30 if DIY; $20–$60 if done at shop.
- MAF/MAP cleaning (non-replace): Parts $0–$15 for cleaner; Labor free if DIY; $40–$100 if shop charges for inspection/clean.
- Idle relearn procedure (if needed and supported by a scan tool): Labor included in TB/MAP/ECT work if performed during service; typically $0–$150 if analyzed during a larger service.
Moderate repairs (more likely to require parts)
- Throttle body replacement (DBW system)
- Parts: OEM throttle body typically $250–$600.
- Labor: $150–$350.
- Estimated total: $400–$950.
- Note: After replacement, a throttle relearn is required; some vehicles require a special re-calibration via scan tool.
- Throttle body gasket and related seals if reseal is possible: Parts $20–$60; Labor $50–$150.
- MAP sensor replacement
- Parts: $60–$120.
- Labor: $40–$120.
- MAF sensor replacement
- Parts: $100–$250.
- Labor: $60–$140.
- Throttle body replacement (DBW system)
Diagnostic and combined repairs (common in practice)
- Vacuum leak repair (hose replacement, clamps, gaskets)
- Parts: $5–$60 depending on what’s replaced.
- Labor: $60–$200.
- ECT sensor replacement
- Parts: $20–$60.
- Labor: $40–$120.
- Overall replacement of multiple items or a combination of TB, MAF/MAP, and vacuum components can push total toward $600–$1500, depending on parts used and labor rates.
- Vacuum leak repair (hose replacement, clamps, gaskets)
Important: The dataset you provided shows “No recalls found in NHTSA database.” No recalls or TSBs are cited here since none are in the data you supplied. If a more comprehensive search is needed, cross-check current recall/TSB databases or Honda Service Information for your specific VIN and model year.
DIY vs PROFESSIONAL
- DIY feasible if you are comfortable with basic automotive work, have access to the right tools (including a good scan tool capable of idle relearn, vacuum testing equipment or smoke tester), and can follow proper anti-tampering and safety procedures.
- Pros: Lower cost; direct learning; quick checks like visual inspection, cleaning, vacuum leak testing, and sensor cleaning are within reach.
- Cons: Modern drive-by-wire systems and idle control calibration can be tricky; improper throttle relearn or misdiagnosed issues can cause drivability issues or damage components.
- Professional
- Pros: Accurate diagnostics with data logging, proper sensor testing, leak testing with smoke tools, and precise throttle body relearn/calibration; warranty considerations.
- Cons: Higher cost; scheduling and wait times.
- Recommendation: Start with non-invasive tests (visuals, cleaning, sensor checks, leaks, relearn). If the problem persists or the throttle body or sensors show fault indicators, consider professional service especially for throttle body replacement or complex calibration.
PREVENTION
- Regular maintenance of the air intake system
- Replace air filter on schedule; keep the intake path clean; inspect for leaks around intake connections.
- Vacuum system health
- Inspect vacuum hoses and PCV system periodically; replace cracked hoses or PCV valve as part of preventive maintenance.
- Sensor care
- If your MAF or MAP sensors were cleaned rather than replaced due to contamination, monitor for return of symptoms. If symptoms recur, consider replacement with OEM parts.
- Throttle body care
- If you drive in dusty or harsh environments, periodic throttle body cleaning can prevent buildup from affecting idle.
- Idle relearn when necessary
- If you’ve disconnected the battery, performed major repairs, or replaced the throttle body, perform the idle relearn per the vehicle’s requirements.
- Fuel quality and combustion
- Use high-quality fuel, avoid contaminated fuel; fuel system cleanliness supports stable idle.
- Use OEM or OEM-recommended parts
- For critical components like throttle body, MAF, MAP, and sensors, OEM or equivalent high-quality parts tend to yield more reliable results.
Important data caveats
- The provided dataset indicates: “OWNER COMPLAINTS — No NHTSA complaints found for this make/model/year/issue combination.” No recalls are listed: “No recalls found in NHTSA database.” This means the diagnostic guide relies on general automotive knowledge and typical CR-V behavior for P0507, not on documented NHTSA complaints or recalls for the 2017–2023 CR-V in your data.
- Real-world results depend on the exact engine variant (e.g., 1.5L turbo in many CR-Vs of these years, vs. other configurations in other markets), trim, and whether the vehicle recently had battery work or electrical issues.
- If you need to verify recalls/TSBs for your specific VIN, check Honda’s official service information or the NHTSA recall database with your VIN, as the data you provided may not reflect all region-specific or recent updates.
If you want, I can tailor the diagnostic steps to your exact CR-V variant (engine type, transmission, region) or provide a printable checklist you can use at home or at the shop.