P0562 Code: Honda CR-V (2017-2023) - Causes, Symptoms & Fixes

Here is a comprehensive diagnostic guide for OBD2 code P0562 (System Voltage Low) tailored for 2017–2023 Honda CR-V. The data you provided from NHTSA shows no owner complaints and no recalls for this exact combination, so I’ll base the guide on general automotive knowledge and what’s typical for this code on modern Hondas, while noting the data limitations.

CODE MEANING AND SEVERITY

• What P0562 means: P0562 is “System Voltage Low.” The engine control module (ECM/PCM) detected electrical system voltage below the expected range for the vehicle’s operating state.
• Why it matters: Modern vehicles rely on a healthy 12V electrical system to power the ECM/PCM, sensors, actuators, and ignition. If voltage is too low, the engine may run poorly, misfire, stall, or fail to start. If the issue is intermittent or persistent, it can lead to a stranded vehicle if not addressed.
• Typical voltage expectations (rough guidelines):
  • Engine off: ~12.6V to 12.8V when the battery is healthy.
  • Engine running: ~13.8V to 14.8V as the alternator charges the battery.
    If you consistently see voltage well below these ranges, especially with the engine running, P0562 is likely signaling a charging/voltage supply issue or a related ground/wiring problem.
• Severity: Moderate to potentially high. If the voltage is consistently low, driveability problems and unexpected stalls can occur. If the battery is old or accessories are drawing power, the risk of a roadside breakdown increases.

COMMON CAUSES ON HONDA CR-V

Note: The CR-V data provided shows no recalls or complaints in the dataset, so these causes are based on general Honda CR-V electrical/charging system behavior and common P0562 causes in modern vehicles.

• Weak or aging 12V battery (most common)
• Faulty alternator or failing voltage regulator (undervoltage output)
• Loose, corroded, or high-resistance battery terminals and cables (positive/negative connections)
• Bad battery ground strap or grounding points (engine to chassis/ECM ground)
• Damaged or degraded wiring between the alternator, battery, and PCM (chafed insulation, loose pins, corrosion)
• Blown charging-system fuse or fusible link (protects the charging circuit)
• Parasitic electrical drain (undiscovered aftermarket accessories, interior lights, modules remaining awake)
• PCM power/ground supply issues or a faulty PCM itself (less common)
• Charging-system sensor or wiring issues that confuse the ECM/readouts
• In hybrid CR-Vs, the 12V system still matters for control modules even though the high-voltage system manages traction battery charging. The same basic checks apply, but the diagnostics may involve the hybrid power management electronics.

SYMPTOMS

• Check Engine Light (MIL) with code P0562
• Battery or charging indicator lights may illuminate
• Dim headlights or interior lights; reduced accessory performance
• Slow cranking or intermittent hard-start conditions
• Engine stalling or misfiring in some cases
• Voltage readings outside the normal range (engine off vs. running)
• Other related codes may appear (P0560, P0561, P0563) if the issue spans multiple voltage conditions

DIAGNOSTIC STEPS

Note: Work safely with the battery and electrical system. If you’re not comfortable with high-current testing, seek a professional.

Step 0: Confirm and document

• Read DTCs with a quality scan tool and save freeze-frame data.
• Note whether P0562 is the only code or if related voltage codes (P0560, P0561, P0563) or other drivetrain/electrical codes appear.

Step 1: Visual inspection

• Inspect battery terminals for corrosion, looseness, or damage.
• Check positive and negative battery cables for cracks, wear, or high-resistance connections.
• Inspect battery ground strap(s) from the battery/engine to the chassis and engine block for tightness and corrosion.
• Look for damaged wiring near the alternator, battery, fuse box, and PCM connectors.
• Check for aftermarket devices that could cause parasitic draw.

Step 2: Basic electrical test (engine off)

• With a digital multimeter, measure battery voltage at the terminals: should be ~12.6–12.8V when off.
• If voltage is significantly low (e.g., <12.0V), the battery is weak or discharged and should be tested/charged or replaced.

Step 3: Charging system test (engine running)

• Start the engine and measure the alternator output at the battery terminals.
• Expected: approximately 13.8V–14.8V with the engine running under normal load.
• If voltage is below ~13.5V or above ~14.8V, the alternator or voltage regulator may be faulty, or there may be excessive electrical load or a significant voltage drop somewhere in the system.

Step 4: Load test the battery

• A load test (or a battery test with a professional battery tester) evaluates the battery’s ability to sustain voltage under load.
• If the battery fails the load test or cannot hold voltage under load, replace the battery.

Step 5: Ground and connection checks

• Perform a resistance/voltage-drop test on the main battery grounds and battery-to-chassis/engine grounds.
• A high resistance or a loose ground can cause low system voltage under load even if the battery and alternator appear OK.
• Clean or repair corroded connections and retighten to the proper torque spec.

Step 6: Inspect charging path fuses/links

• Check relevant charging fuses and fusible links in the under-hood fuse/relay box. A blown fuse can cause low charging system voltage.

Step 7: Inspect for parasitic draw

• If the battery is new and tests OK but voltage still sags after sitting, perform a parasitic-draw test to identify accessories or modules awake while the vehicle is off.
• Typical parasitic draw should be in the tens of milliamps range; sustained higher draws indicate a culprit.

Step 8: Check harnesses and connectors

• Inspect the alternator connector, battery cable terminals, and PCM power/ground connectors for corrosion, bent pins, or poor seating.
• Look for signs of rubbing or chafing on wires that could cause intermittent short/voltage drops.

Step 9: Software/ECU considerations

• If all hardware tests pass but the voltage readings and behavior are inconsistent, check for Honda service bulletins or updates relevant to the PCM’s voltage sensing. If Honda software updates exist for your VIN, a dealer can advise on reflash or calibration.

Step 10: Reproduce under various conditions

• If possible, replicate the fault with different loads (air conditioning on, headlights on, etc.) to see how voltage behaves and whether it correlates with load.

Step 11: Draw final conclusions

• If the alternator output is correct and all wiring/ground paths are solid, but P0562 persists, suspect a PCM power rail issue or a less common intermittent fault. In such cases, professional troubleshooting (scope, voltage-drop testing, and possibly a PCM check/reflash) is advised.

RELATED CODES

• P0560 System Voltage Malfunction
• P0561 System Voltage Too Low
• P0563 System Voltage High
  Note: These codes are related in concept and often appear together if there’s a broader charging/voltage issue or a sensor/fusion problem. If P0562 is isolated, the fault is more likely to be with the battery, alternator, or wiring.

REPAIR OPTIONS AND COSTS (2025 PRICES)

Prices vary by region, shop, and whether the vehicle is a standard gasoline CR-V or a hybrid. All costs are approximate ranges for common repair paths.

• Battery replacement (12V battery)

  • Parts: $70–$180
  • Labor: $20–$60
  • Typical total: $90–$240
  • Notes: If the battery is older than 3–5 years, replacement is often wise.

• Alternator and/or voltage regulator replacement

  • Parts: $200–$450
  • Labor: $150–$350
  • Typical total: $350–$800
  • Notes: Labor times vary by accessibility. On many CR-Vs, the alternator is readily accessible but may require engine support. Some shops may price higher for diagnostics.

• Wiring/ground repair (corrosion, damage, or high-resistance connections)

  • Parts: $20–$150 (depends on repair length and connectors)
  • Labor: $100–$400
  • Typical total: $120–$550
  • Notes: If harness replacement is required, cost can rise.

• PCM/ECU power-rail issues or software reflash

  • Parts: often $0–$300 (if no replacement), plus programming
  • Labor: $100–$250
  • Typical total: $100–$550 (varies widely)
  • Notes: This is less common but can occur if voltage sensing or rail regulation malfunctions.

• General parasitic-draw repair

  • Parts: $0–$100 (depending on what’s found)
  • Labor: $100–$300
  • Typical total: $100–$400

Important note: these are generalized estimates. Actual costs depend on whether you do DIY work, local labor rates, whether OEM or aftermarket parts are used, and whether any ancillary repairs (like cleaning corrosion or replacing a damaged belt) are needed.

DIY VS PROFESSIONAL

• DIY-friendly tasks
  • Battery replacement (if you have basic hand tools and know how to disconnect and reconnect safely)
  • Cleaning corrosion from battery terminals and re-tightening clamps
  • Basic voltage checks with a multimeter (engine off and engine running)
  • Inspecting visible wiring for obvious damage
• Tasks better left to a professional
  • Replacing an alternator or diagnosing a failure that isn’t clear from surface tests
  • Wiring harness repairs or diagnosing intermittent voltage drops
  • Parasitic-draw tests requiring specialized equipment or knowledge
  • PCM power-rail issues and programming/flash updates

Safety tip: When working around the battery and charging system, disconnecting the negative terminal first is standard practice. Reconnect in the reverse order. Avoid shorting tools across terminals.

PREVENTION

• Regular battery maintenance
  • Test battery health at least once a year; replace when capacity or cold-cranking amps drop below spec.
  • Keep terminals clean and tight; apply anti-corrosion compound on terminals where appropriate.
• Maintain the charging system
  • Have the alternator output tested periodically (especially if you notice dimming lights or slow electronics).
  • Inspect belts for wear and proper tension; replace worn belts promptly.
• Minimize parasitic drains
  • Remove or disconnect aftermarket devices if you suspect they cause extra load when the vehicle is off.
  • Ensure modules sleep properly and aren’t left awake due to faulty relays or wiring.
• Protect against corrosion and vibration
  • Inspect wiring harness routes for chafing in hot engine areas; repair damaged wiring promptly.
• Regular servicing
  • Adhere to Honda’s recommended service intervals for the 12V system and electrical components.
  • If you live in extreme climates, more frequent checks are warranted to ensure battery and charging system health.

Data limitations note

• Based on the REAL NHTSA DATA you supplied, there are no owner complaints and no recalls found for the 2017–2023 Honda CR-V with this issue. This guide uses general automotive knowledge and typical CR-V electrical troubleshooting for P0562. If you want the most precise guidance, please share your exact CR-V configuration (gasoline vs hybrid, trim level) and any observed symptoms, and I can tailor the steps further. Also, check for any Honda service bulletins or dealer advisories that may not be reflected in the provided dataset.

If you’d like, I can tailor this guide to your specific CR-V (gasoline vs hybrid, engine type, and whether you’re seeing P0562 alone or with other codes) and convert the diagnostic steps into a checklist you can print.