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P0507 Code: Toyota Tacoma (2016-2023) - Causes, Symptoms & Fixes

Complete guide to P0507 diagnostic trouble code on 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma - causes, symptoms, repair costs

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No recalls found in NHTSA database

Based on the provided NHTSA data for Toyota Tacoma (2016-2023): there are no owner complaints listed for P0507, and no recalls found for this combination. This guide uses general automotive knowledge for the P0507 diagnosis and notes data limitations where applicable.

CODE MEANING AND SEVERITY

  • What P0507 means: P0507 is an idle-control related diagnostic fault indicating that the engine’s idle speed is higher than what the powertrain control module (PCM) commanded. In vehicles with electronic throttle control, idle speed is commanded by the ECU; if unmetered air or a faulty sensor causes the actual idle to stay high, the PCM may set P0507.
  • Severity (on a typical Tacoma, 2016–2023): Moderate. A consistently high idle can waste fuel, raise exhaust emissions, and may lead to drivability concerns such as rough idle, increased RPM at a stop, or stalling risk if the system cannot settle. Often caused by vacuum leaks or intake/throttle deposition and is highly detectable with a scan tool and basic inspection.
  • Important note about data limits: No NHTSA complaints or recalls were found in the provided data for this code on this model/year range. Real-world results can vary by vehicle condition, maintenance history, and environment.

COMMON CAUSES ON TOYOTA TACOMA

  • Vacuum leaks: Cracked or loose vacuum hoses, cracked intake boot, brake booster line, or manifold gasket leaks can introduce unmetered air, raising idle speed.
  • PCV system issues: A stuck PCV valve, cracked PCV hose, or PCV routed to the intake can create extra air at idle.
  • Throttle body carbon buildup or sticking: Excessive deposits can cause improper throttle plate movement or idle control hand-off, especially on direct-drive-by-wire systems.
  • Throttle body or idle-control mechanism (IAC or equivalent): Some Tacomas rely on the throttle-by-wire ECU to manage idle; a dirty or stuck throttle body or faulty idle-control function can cause high idle.
  • MAF/MAP/TPS sensor issues: A dirty or failing mass airflow (MAF) sensor, manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, or throttle position sensor (TPS) can misread air/fuel, causing the ECU to command a higher idle.
  • EGR system: A stuck-open EGR valve or carbon buildup in EGR passages can affect manifold vacuum and idle.
  • Coolant temperature sensor or engine temperature: A sensor that reads wrong temperature can influence air/fuel and idle targets, particularly during warm-up.
  • Air intake leaks after the MAF: Leaks between the MAF sensor and the throttle body can cause incorrect air measurement and high idle.
  • Engine bay contamination or non-Toyota aftermarket components: Non-OEM parts or loose connections can create additional air paths or sensor faults.

SYMPTOMS

  • Idle RPM higher than normal, sometimes noticeably above target RPM at stop.
  • Rough or unstable idle (surges, surges then settles).
  • Check Engine Light (CEL) or MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) may be illuminated.
  • Increased fuel consumption or reduced fuel economy.
  • Occasional stalling or near-stalling at stop if the idle control cannot stabilize.
  • Possible misfire-like symptoms if lean conditions develop from vacuum leaks.
  • DTC P0507 stored in the PCM, with possible related pending codes (P0505, P0506, P0508) depending on exact fault.

DIAGNOSTIC STEPS

A careful, systematic approach helps avoid unnecessary parts replacement. Perform in a logical sequence and document live data where possible.

  • Step 1: Verify and document

    • Use a capable OBD-II scanner to confirm P0507 and review freeze-frame data (engine coolant temperature, RPM, load, etc.).
    • Check for additional current or pending codes (P0505, P0506, P0508, or sensor-related codes like P0101, P0102, P0113, P0131, P0171, P0174, etc.).
  • Step 2: Visual and quick checks

    • Inspect the entire intake system for obvious vacuum leaks: cracked hoses, loose clamps, cracked intake boot, damaged or disconnected PCV hoses, and cracked throttle body gaskets.
    • Check brake booster hose and connections.
    • Inspect and reseat electrical connectors to sensors involved in idle control (MAP, MAF, TPS, EGR).
    • Look for oil or dirt on MAF sensor that could affect readings.
  • Step 3: Inspect the idle control path

    • If your Tacoma uses an IAC valve or a separate idle control mechanism (some engines have IAC integrated into the throttle body assembly), inspect for sticking, carbon buildup, or binding. Clean if accessible and allowed by service guidelines; replace if faulty.
    • For electronic throttle control (ETC), inspect the throttle body for carbon buildup. A dirty throttle plate can reduce air metering accuracy and affect idle.
  • Step 4: Clean and test sensors

    • MAF sensor: If dirty or contaminated, clean with a dedicated MAF cleaner (do not touch the delicate element with brushes). Reinstall and clear codes.
    • Throttle body: With the engine off, gently clean the throttle body bore and throttle plate edge using approved throttle-body cleaner. Do not spray electronics; avoid clogging sensors.
    • TPS: If available data shows the TPS reading does not smoothly follow throttle pedal movement or seems out of range at idle, test/replace as needed.
    • MAP sensor: Inspect wiring and apply a diagnostic test if live data shows out-of-range MAP readings at idle.
    • PCV valve and hoses: Ensure PCV valve moves freely and hoses are not collapsed or cracked.
  • Step 5: Vacuum and leakage testing

    • Perform a smoke test to identify unmetered air paths. Pay attention to intake manifold gaskets, vacuum hoses, brake booster line, and any vacuum tee junctions.
    • If a smoke test is not available, a propane/trace gas test or spray-down method can help locate leaks, listening for RPM change when introducing a source near suspected leaks.
  • Step 6: EGR system check

    • If your engine has an EGR valve, inspect for carbon buildup and test whether it opens/closes properly. A stuck-open EGR can affect idle and overall performance.
  • Step 7: Temperature-related checks

    • Verify coolant temperature reading at idle. A faulty coolant temperature sensor can influence idle target values, especially during warm-up.
  • Step 8: Road test and data logging

    • After making any changes, clear codes and perform a road test in various conditions (idle, light throttle, steady cruise) while watching live data: engine RPM, idle target vs actual, MAF, MAP, TPS, intake air temps, and long-term fuel trims.
    • If idle remains high or inconsistent, revisit the above steps or consider more advanced diagnostics (e.g., borescope inspection of intake passages, smoke test under load, or professional ECU calibration update if applicable).
  • Step 9: If the problem persists

    • With persistent high idle unresponsive to cleaning and sensor tests, a professional diagnosis may be required. There could be an uncommon issue such as a software calibration difference, a subtle intake leak not easily found, or a failing PCM function that requires dealer-level diagnostics or software updates.

RELATED CODES

  • P0505: Idle Control System Malfunction (older or alternate wording in some references)
  • P0506: Idle Air Control System RPM Lower Than Expected (or similar idle-related codes)
  • P0508: Idle Control System/ETC sensor range or performance-related code
  • Other related codes you may see with idle issues: P0101 or P0102 (MAF), P0113 (IAT sensor), P0131 (O2 sensors; less common for idle, but may appear if fuel trims are off), P0171/P0174 (fuel trim system lean/rich indicators, often a symptom of an air leak or sensor fault)

Note: Exact code wording and groupings can vary by model year and ECU software. The key concept is that these codes relate to idle control and air metering.

REPAIR OPTIONS AND COSTS (2025 PRICES)

Prices vary by region, vehicle condition, and labor rate. The ranges below reflect typical U.S. shop estimates as of 2025 and assume standard Tacoma labor rates (roughly $100–$180/hour in many areas). DIY costs are lower but depend on tools and parts chosen.

  • Diagnostic fee (scan and inspection):

    • Range: $80–$150
  • Vacuum leaks and hoses

    • Parts: $10–$100 (hoses, clamps, PCV valve)
    • Labor: $60–$180
    • Overall typical repair: $70–$250
  • Throttle body cleaning (do-it-yourself or shop service)

    • Parts: $0–$100 (if cleaning; replacement parts extra)
    • Labor: $0–$120 (DIY vs shop)
    • Throttle body replacement (if cleaning is insufficient):
      • Parts: $150–$450
      • Labor: 1–2 hours
      • Total: $300–$900
  • MAF sensor cleaning or replacement

    • Cleaning (DIY): $0–$15 in cleaners
    • Replacement (OEM or aftermarket): $120–$350
    • Labor: $40–$120
  • PCV valve and hoses

    • Parts: $10–$40
    • Labor: $20–$80
    • Total: $30–$120
  • EGR valve cleaning or replacement

    • Cleaning: $50–$150 (parts included if DIY)
    • Replacement: $150–$500 (parts), $60–$180 (labor)
    • Total: $210–$680
  • Intake manifold gasket replacement (if leak is found)

    • Parts: $100–$300
    • Labor: 4–6 hours
    • Total: $500–$1,800
  • Vacuum leak repair (non-hose parts, e.g., gasket replacement)

    • Parts: $20–$200
    • Labor: 1–3 hours
    • Total: $120–$700
  • ECU calibration/updates (dealer-only or software update)

    • Parts: $0–$0 (usually no part)
    • Labor/diagnostic: $0–$150 (depending on dealer vs shop)
    • Total: $0–$150
  • Smoke test for leaks (often part of diagnostic)

    • Range: $100–$250 (if not included in diagnostic)

Typical, common-path scenario

  • Vacuum leaks or dirty TB: $70–$250
  • TB cleaning + MAF cleaning + basic sensor checks: $150–$350 (DIY lower if you do it yourself)
  • If a component replacement is required (TB, MAF, PCV, or EGR): $150–$600 for parts, plus $60–$200 labor

Important notes

  • These are ballpark figures. Regional labor rates and parts costs can push totals higher or lower.
  • If multiple issues are found (e.g., vacuum leaks plus dirty TB plus a sensor fault), total cost can accumulate.
  • Always obtain a written estimate before major repairs.

DIY VS PROFESSIONAL

  • DIY-friendly possibilities:
    • Cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor (careful cleaning with proper cleaners; do not spray electronics).
    • Replacing PCV valve and simple vacuum hoses.
    • Inspecting hoses, clamps, and visible connectors.
    • Performing a basic test for vacuum leaks with safe methods (smoke test if available, or careful spray-down technique while monitoring RPM response).
  • When to go pro:
    • Persistent high idle after cleaning and basic tests.
    • Suspected vacuum leaks not easily found, or you don’t own a smoke machine.
    • Sensor diagnostics require advanced scanning with live data and potentially calibration/ECU reflash.
    • You are not comfortable with disconnecting air intake components or working near the throttle body.

PREVENTION

  • Regular air intake maintenance:
    • Replace air filter as recommended.
    • Keep the throttle body clean; periodic gentle cleaning helps prevent deposits.
  • PCV system health:
    • Inspect PCV valve and associated hoses at service intervals; replace as needed to prevent leaks.
  • Vacuum system hygiene:
    • Inspect hoses and seams for cracks or damage; replace compromised hoses promptly.
  • Sensor care:
    • Ensure MAF and MAP sensors are clean and free of contamination from oil or dirt.
    • Avoid driving with a severely dirty air intake or misrouted hoses.
  • EGR system maintenance:
    • If your engine has an EGR valve, ensure it is clean and functioning; carbon buildup can cause idle and drivability issues.
  • Fuel quality and maintenance:
    • Use good-quality fuel and consider periodic fuel system cleaning if recommended for your engine.
  • Warm-up and operation:
    • Allow the engine to reach proper operating temperature before heavy use; avoid prolonged idling when possible.

Closing notes on data limitations

  • The provided data indicates no NHTSA complaints and no recalls for the 2016–2023 Toyota Tacoma related to P0507. This guide uses general mechanical knowledge and typical diagnostic practices for idle-control codes on Toyota engines. Individual results will vary by vehicle condition, maintenance history, and region.
  • If you want, I can tailor the guide further to your specific Tacoma configuration (engine size, transmission type, whether it uses electronic throttle control or a separate idle valve) and your local labor rates to give more precise cost estimates.

Frequently Asked Questions

The 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma has several known issues that vary by model year. See our detailed guide for specific problems, causes, and repair costs.

Vehicle Info

MakeToyota
ModelTacoma
Years2016-2023

DISCLAIMER: This information is for educational purposes only. MechanicGPT is not a licensed mechanic. Always consult a certified mechanic for diagnosis and repair. Improper repairs can be dangerous.